There are two kinds of carrot cake. The first, often found next to the bran muffins, emphasizes the carrot as vegetable and icing as frippery to be rationed, and firmly declares itself to be a healthful baked good. The second uses the carrot as an alibi for a generous spackling of cream cheese frosting so sugary that even my overly enthusiastic sweet tooth aches.
Happily, Jesse Szewczyk has found the middle ground. His carrot cupcakes (above) are just sweet enough, with crisp, domed tops and moist, cinnamon-scented interiors flecked with carrot. The cream cheese frosting uses less confectioners’ sugar than most, making it both soft and gently tangy. It’s a perfect update of a beloved treat.
Featured Recipe
Carrot Cake Cupcakes
You know what else could use an update? The classic cheesy chicken, rice and broccoli bake. Sarah Copeland gives us her fresh and bright version, with its silky, risotto-like texture. This no-cans casserole is filled with tender chicken cutlets and broccoli florets, all nestled under a golden, bubbling Parmesan topping. It’s as comforting and thoroughly modern as can be.
If you’re looking for another homey chicken recipe (this time without rice, so you could pair with your favorite potatoes), there’s Ali Slagle’s crispy baked chicken. Made from drumsticks and thighs coated in paprika-spiced brown sugar, the chicken skin turns caramelized and crunchy as the legs slowly bake, the meat practically falling off the bone. Plop the chicken on a bed of baby spinach or arugula tossed with some lemon juice and salt and let its savory juices dress the greens. So simple, so very satisfying.
I’ve yet to take the cover off my grill this season, but Steven Raichlen’s latest story in the food pages of The New York Times has jolted me into action. He extols the joys of cooking on an outdoor griddle, whether one of the new stand-alone versions on the market or a slab that you can place on top of your grill. Grill-deprived? Both of his recipes will also work indoors in your kitchen. There’s a garlicky shrimp a la plancha seasoned with pimentón and brandy or sherry, as well as rich, custardy torrijas — Spanish-style French toast — spiked with citrus zest and sweet wine.
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That’s it for now. See you on Wednesday.
