Good morning. A number of years ago, on a sunny afternoon in Melbourne, Australia, I ate a pork gyro, a species of gyro I had never encountered before. I’d grown up eating lamb gyros at Mr. Souvlaki on Montague Street in Brooklyn, but never pork ones. Maybe beef ones, too, occasionally. But mostly lamb: the meat shaved onto pita and then topped with salad, tzatziki and a red sauce of ketchup deeply cut with hot sauce. The pork version was a revelation. When I got home I made the dish again and again until the recipe was good enough to share.
Here comes another revelation: Lidey Heuck’s new recipe for chicken souvlaki (above), which uses yogurt in the marinade to make the chicken incredibly tender. No grill? No problem. You can roast the chicken to cook it through and then crisp it on the stovetop in a sauté pan slicked with neutral oil hot enough to be almost smoking.
For breakfast on Sunday, I’d like to go full diner style, with eggs over easy, Samin Nosrat’s awesome — and simple! — maple breakfast sausage and Naz Deravian’s new recipe for crisp breakfast potatoes, roasted gold in the oven. That’ll set me up nicely for a nap during the Giants-Commanders game at 1 p.m. in the East. Perhaps some jalapeño poppers during halftime, for lunch?
But for dinner, I’m going with Ali Slagle’s latest: crispy rice with salmon and avocado, which pairs crisp blocks of seared sushi rice with creamy raw salmon and avocado. It’s a riff on a dish made by Los Angeles chef Katsuya Uechi, himself riffing on yaki onigiri. That would be a nice end to the weekend.
Still, so would a cauldron of Sunday gravy, to serve with pasta and a Lucali salad. So would a fantastically French roast chicken with tarragon and Cognac. And so would a mushroom and eggplant yassa, fragrant and fantastic over rice. Follow your bliss.
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Now, it’s nothing to do with fonio or the price of skirt steak, but I had the good fortune to come across June Gervais’s novel “Jobs for Girls With Artistic Flair” recently, and the reading is delicious.
More fiction: “I Am Pizza Rat,” by Han Ong, in The New Yorker.
Finally, let’s close with a new track from boygenius, “Afraid of Heights.” “Not everybody gets the chance to live a life that isn’t dangerous,” Lucy Dacus sings. That’s something to think about while you’re cooking. I’ll see you on Sunday.