Long ago in ancient times, before the pandemic, I decided that the next topic for Wine School would be chardonnays from the Willamette Valley of Oregon.
I thought it was a great idea then. Now, it’s still a good idea, except that the restrictions on shopping, not to mention the economic disaster that many people face today, requires us to be flexible.
So I am still going to propose the Oregon chardonnays, with some possible alternatives for those who either can’t find these wines or would prefer something cheaper.
The subject of Willamette chardonnays is absolutely worth pursuing. This young region — the first commercial vineyards were planted roughly 50 years ago — has struggled over the years with chardonnay. At times, it seemed as if many winemakers in the Willamette were trying to imitate the style of California chardonnays in the 1990s: big, oaky and flamboyantly fruity.
But in the last 15 years, Oregon seems to have found its own groove, pursuing a leaner style, with lively acidity and plenty of nuance, which seems a far more comfortable fit.
If the wines I’ve suggested seem too expensive, see if you can find a bottle from A to Z Wineworks that should run about $15. The grapes are from Oregon, though not the Willamette Valley, and it’s a good introduction.
Perhaps a bottle of Oregon chardonnay is simply not in the cards this month. I would not suggest getting chardonnay from anywhere else, as the wine will have different characteristics and defeat the purpose of the examination.
Instead, I would propose a cooking exercise similar to what we just did with roast chicken. Oregon chardonnay goes very well with salmon. If you can find a good piece of salmon, cook it without too much adornment, and pick a wine to pair with it.
Salmon is not quite as forgiving as roast chicken, but it is flexible. It goes well, for example, with both chardonnay and pinot noir. Let me know what you choose to drink and how it works.
If salmon is not to your taste or budget, try arctic char or trout.
This is the part of the article where I often issue reminders about temperature and glassware. I’m going to drink the wines cool, not cold, in a decent stemmed glass. But you know what? Enjoy it however choose. In a time of sweatpants, no haircuts and widespread deprivation, let’s not be fussy.
