From Bonn to Vienna, in Search of Beethoven, the Man

Even the most casual visitor to Vienna can’t help but be bombarded by the city’s Mozart-industrial complex. Mozart’s face peers out from the wrappers of ubiquitous chocolate-covered candies called Mozart Kugeln, grand cafes offer Mozart tortes, and souvenir shops sell Mozart key chains, stuffed Mozarts, and even Mozart rubber duckies. Hawkers outside major sights aren’t…

36 Hours in Basel

Basel is, perhaps, the only city in the world that’s best experienced at 4 a.m. on a Monday. On a particular Monday, that is: the one after Ash Wednesday, when nearly every local with a pulse turns up in the Old Town for a parade known as the Morgenstreich. Then, on the fourth chime of…

Dragons, Apes, Mantas and Birds

“Gentlemen,’’ I said to our boys the night before we left for Indonesia, “are you sure you’re ready to see real dragons?’’ The face of our younger son, Asa, 7 at the time, lit up. He still lived in his own world, apart from the rest of us, where real and make-believe weren’t so easy…