On a 2019 trip to Northern Greece, lunch at Kanela & Garyfallo Restaurant, in Zagori, ended with a memorable dessert of candied chanterelles and thick Greek yogurt. It came to mind when Angie Mar recently served a savory foie gras mille-feuille garnished with candied morels (morilles confites) at her restaurant, Les Trois Chevaux, in the West Village. The morels, now in season, couldn’t be simpler to prepare; serve them over vanilla ice cream, or Greek yogurt. Melt one and a half cups sugar over medium heat in a heavy-bottomed, three-quart saucepan until it turns light amber. Carefully add 12 ounces hot water, slowly stirring because it may bubble up; cook until the sugar dissolves. Add five ounces rinsed fresh morels and a half teaspoon salt and simmer about 10 minutes until the mushrooms start to look translucent. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to use; save the liquid to enrich onion soup or use as a poaching liquid for pears.
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