At Jiang Diner in the East Village, lamb abounds, but chicken still gets a few opportunities to stand out. In the sautéed spicy chicken with bone, bits of sesame-spackled fried chicken are outnumbered by blistered dried chiles, the chunks of meat peeking through a thick canopy of red. The heat is subtle, more a smoky subterranean current than an assault of fire.
