I manage to have a pretty good diet throughout the year, eating lots of fresh vegetables and fruit, with moderate (mostly) wine consumption.
But from late November until the last gasp at the end of the December, we all are bombarded with richness and excess at every turn. Who can resist?
Once the new year begins, it’s time to re-rig — but a person’s got to eat. I won’t commit to utter sensory deprivation, so I make sure that January’s food is tasty and beautiful, if not abundant. And throwing an occasional dinner party shouldn’t be out of the question. The trick is to lighten up without sacrificing flavor. That’s what this menu is all about.
When there’s a need for a meal like this, I’m often inspired by skimming through Japanese cookbooks. There, I find examples of food that is exquisite in its simplicity. Though I’m no expert, I try to mirror, respectfully, this uncomplicated approach.
For a first course, I wanted something fresh, so I settled on an herb salad with tofu. There’s a well-known Japanese dish of tofu drizzled with soy sauce or ponzu and sprinkled with scallions, ginger and shaved bonito, eaten cold.
Playing with that idea, I use a combination of tarragon, dill, shiso, mint, basil, cilantro, parsley and watercress paired with cool, custardy silken tofu. Then there’s a dressing of toasted sesame seeds, lime juice, ginger, sesame oil and finely minced green chile stirred into yogurt. It may sound odd (it’s not remotely authentic), but the combination is quite refreshing.
The chicken main course gets most of its flavor from miso, the Japanese paste made from fermented soybeans or other grains. Aside from being probiotic, high in vitamins and mineral rich, miso is delicious. (A small tub in the refrigerator keeps forever, and has many uses.) Light miso (yellow or white) yields a mild, nutty dish; dark miso (red or brown) gives it a deeper, moodier rustic quality. Both yield succulent results.
I simmer skinless, boneless chicken thighs — nearly impossible to overcook — in water with a few aromatics for a pleasant light broth, but feel free to use chicken stock for more depth if you wish. The simmered meat is then slathered with a seasoned miso mixture, and roasted until beautifully glazed. Served in a shallow soup bowl, with a ladle of leek and scallion-enhanced broth, it is unfathomably good.
Even people who may skip dessert can manage a bowl of fruit sorbet. This one is exceedingly easy and makes a perfect ending to any meal. Composed of fresh tangerine juice and a small amount of sugar, the sorbet mixture needs a bit of alcohol to keep it from freezing solid. A little sake does the trick here, while a splash of sake at serving time adds interest. (If you’re not a fan of sake, use flavorless vodka in the base, and a citrus-infused vodka or citrus liqueur to finish.)
In all modesty, I must say it’s a pretty fabulous meal, light enough to be called spa food, though if you don’t tell, no one will guess.
Recipes: Tofu and Herb Salad With Sesame | Miso Chicken in Ginger, Leek and Scallion Broth | Tangerine Sorbet With Sake
