There’s a lot of zucchini at the market. And in the garden. And in the neighbor’s garden. Yes, it is prolific, but a lot of effort went into getting it to grow. Why not give in and enjoy a daily helping of freshly picked zucchini while it’s here? There are so many ways to prepare it, whether steamed, fried, pickled or in pasta.
In fact, zucchini pasta is a summer favorite. My go-to recipe features long-cooked zucchini, ricotta, Parmesan and basil. It’s so quick, easy and satisfying that I could make it once a week and never tire of it. But a couple of gifts arrived in my kitchen, and I now have a new favorite version.
CreditAndrew Scrivani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Iah Pinkney
A gardener friend gave me a basket full of gorgeous zucchini and other colorful summer squash. A chef friend gave me some lovely Italian bottarga, its lobes sealed in wax. It seemed only right to marry them.
Bottarga, in case you are not familiar with it, is the salted, cured roe of gray mullet or tuna, considered a delicacy by many. It is especially beloved in Sardinia and Sicily, but is enjoyed throughout the Mediterranean and around the world.
I have heard bottarga described as the prosciutto of the sea by some and the truffle of the sea by others. It is likened to prosciutto because it is a cured, salty, deeply flavorful product; to truffles because of its umami-rich qualities.
Often, pastas are topped or tossed with grated bottarga. Sometimes, it is served in paper-thin slices, on its own with a drizzle of fine olive oil, or added to salads or egg dishes.
Though bottarga is made from salted fish eggs, it doesn’t taste fishy. It has a bright, briny tanginess. The two most common types are bottarga di muggine, made from grey mullet roe (it has a milder flavor and golden color), and costlier bottarga di tonno, made from tuna roe (somewhat bolder in taste and reddish brown). It is definitely worth keeping some bottarga on hand to use when the mood strikes — an opened package can be stored in the refrigerator for months. An easy snack is grated or sliced bottarga on warm buttered toast.
I love the way bottarga enlivens this spaghetti, mingling with the mild, sweet zucchini. There’s a bit of lemon zest to cut through the saltiness and a simple cheeseless, nutless parsley pesto that adds a hint of garlic and a touch of green (basil would be too distracting). Crisp golden breadcrumbs are a welcome part of the mix, too.
Give it a try. But also know that, should you desire, the zucchini alone, with bottarga and no pasta, is lovely; and the pasta alone, with bottarga and no zucchini, is gorgeous, too.
Recipe: Spaghetti With Zucchini, Parsley Pesto and Bottarga
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