Here they are, from least to most expensive.
Michel Guignier Beaujolais 2020, 12.5 percent, $16
Straightforward Beaujolais are conventionally considered simple and easy to drink. But this one is more than cheap and cheerful. It has grip and depth, and is full of earthy fruit flavors. Michel Guignier, who is situated in Morgon, farms organically. I haven’t encountered his wines often over the years, but this one is a great value and well worth seeking out. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)
Pierre-Marie Chermette Beaujolais Griottes 2020, 13.5 percent, $17
Pierre-Marie and Martine Chermette, who for many years led the family estate, Domaine du Vissoux, have been joined by a son, Jean-Étienne Chermette. The estate also has a new name, Domaines Chermette. With all those changes, the wines remain excellent, including the easygoing, refreshing Beaujolais Griottes, which has lively flavors of fresh raspberries. (Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, Pa.)
Jean-Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorées Beaujolais L’Ancien Vieilles Vignes 2020, 13.5 percent, $20
Jean-Paul Brun has long been one of my favorite producers in Beaujolais. He’s conscientious, experimental and consistently makes good, fairly priced wines. Yet he is often overlooked in the rush to the newest discoveries. He was one of the earliest modern producers to forgo the most common Beaujolais production method, semi-carbonic fermentation. Instead, he employs conventional alcoholic fermentation, which gives his wines a calm subtlety. This basic Beaujolais is fresh, pure and plummy, with a touch of licorice. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York)
