A New Destination for Chinese Food: Not Flushing, but Forest Hills
Xueling Zhang arrives in the kitchen by 7 a.m. to make the day’s soup dumplings. On a good day his restaurant, Memories of Shanghai, goes through 50 orders of xiao long bao, each one swirled into a hypnotic brocade in Mr. Zhang’s hands. Then he turns to other dim sum items under his purview: tender…