For Shelsky’s latest venture, it’s all about the bagels. At their new Park Slope location, the owners Peter Shelsky and Lewis Spada have brought on Matthew Tilden, who was at Scratchbread in Bedford-Stuyvesant, to bake bagels that, while quite plump, are denser, chewier and crisper than the usual examples of the genre. The partners are especially proud of their cracked pepper and salt bagel, their whole-grain bagel and their pletzel, a kind of large, flattened bialy covered with onions and poppy seeds. Shelsky’s smoked fish and other deli items fill the display cases. Bagel and bialy sandwiches are available, along with fried knish pastry filled with hot pastrami, sauerkraut and mustard. It’s food to go; seating is minimal.

Shelsky’s Brooklyn Bagels, 453 Fourth Avenue (10th Street), Park Slope, Brooklyn, 718-855-8817, shelskys.com.

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