Upward Farms, a company in the Greenpoint neighborhood of Brooklyn that grows U.S.D.A.-certified organic microgreens aquaponically indoors, has added fish to its inventory. They’re hybrid striped bass, a crossbreed of freshwater white bass and striped bass and nothing like the latter except for the stripes. The whole fish, about a pound and a half, comes to market impeccably fresh. The flavor is quite delicate and the texture lacks the meaty succulence of wild striped bass, even when roasted to perfection in a wood oven, as mine was at Nick & Toni’s in East Hampton, N.Y. The same holds for the rosy-toned fillets, which I broiled with a slather of mayonnaise. Upward Farms cultivates the fish sustainably, without added chemicals, in an indoor integrated aquaponic system where the aquaculture wastewater is used to fertilize the salad crops.
Upward Farms whole hybrid striped bass $18.99, Greenpoint Fish & Lobster, 114 Nassau Street (Eckford Street), Greenpoint, Brooklyn, 718-313-1913, greenpointfish.com, eatupwardfarms.com.
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