A Spread Worthy of Royalty

In Min Jin Lee’s 2017 novel “Pachinko,” a restaurant owner approaches the protagonist, Sunja, after hearing of her famous kimchi. Sunja’s reputation preceding her, the owner hires her on the spot to supply his restaurant’s banchan — the small side dishes that often accompany a Korean meal. “Any fool can make a marinade and grill…

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Your Best Sandwiches

I ate ham and cheese sandwiches for two months of lunches, it felt like, until one day I lost the taste for them and had to make a switch. I had a little fist of duck breast left over from when I’d made a couple of them for dinner, cooked slowly on the stovetop under…

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