In a business known for its short shelf life, a restaurant like Le Bernardin turning 50 is significant. The owners, Maguy Le Coze and the chef, Eric Ripert, have planned a dinner to mark the occasion. Ms. Le Coze and her brother, Gilbert, first opened their seafood restaurant in 1972 on the Left Bank in Paris, with a view of Notre Dame, then relocated the restaurant near the Arc de Triomphe. They made the trans-Atlantic move to the present location in New York in 1986, as an anchor in a collection of restaurants in a new office tower on Seventh Avenue. The restaurant received four stars in its first New York Times review, three months after opening, a top ranking it has maintained over decades. In Paris it received two stars from Michelin, but was never awarded the ultimate three. (Mr. Le Coze contended that it was because they only served fish.) When Michelin introduced its New York guide in 2005, the restaurant finally achieved the third star. It was a pinnacle that Mr. Le Coze was unable to enjoy: He died unexpectedly of a heart attack in 1994. Ms. Le Coze kept the restaurant going with Mr. Ripert, who became her partner in the restaurant. To mark the anniversary they have organized a $1,000 per person six-course dinner on Wednesday with 10 percent going to the charity City Harvest, which Mr. Ripert supports. The menu combines echoes of Le Bernardin classics, like the pounded tuna first course; and monkfish with a sunchoke purée replacing melted leeks. (Mr. Le Coze is often credited with popularizing monkfish for the American audience.) In recent years, Le Bernardin has always been at or near the top of global restaurant awards.
The History of the Jewish Deli
The Jewish deli’s role in the history of New York will be on display at the New-York Historical Society, and not just from a culinary angle. The exhibit, which was previously at the Skirball Cultural Center in Los Angeles, explores the role of immigrants in creating New York deli traditions and details the heyday of the deli starting after World War I, the global reach of the deli, and delis in New York’s theater district. Signage, menus, uniforms, film clips and photographs illustrate the survey.
“I’ll Have What She’s Having”: The Jewish Deli, Nov. 11 through April 2, 2023, New-York Historical Society, 170 Central Park West (77th Street), nyhistory.org.
Jacques Pépin’s charitable foundation, which supports culinary education and job training, is now offering a jigsaw puzzle. Its 520 pieces show the wall of pots and pans in his Madison, Conn., kitchen; the box comes with a membership in the foundation (new, not a renewal), which provides a steady stream of recipes and videos. The package makes an excellent gift for those with culinary aspirations.
Pot Wall Jigsaw Puzzle and Jacques Pépin Foundation Membership, $75, jp.foundation.
A Thai Spin on Pumpkin Pie
Pumpkin pie without the inevitable spices — variously cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, ginger — is possible. You’ll find an example in the kitchen of Hong Thaimee, the Thai chef and restaurateur. For Thanksgiving this year she’s baking two desserts with Thai flavors, the more compelling of which is the pumpkin: She swapped out the pumpkin pie spice and replaced it with her red curry paste, giving the filling a nice cloak of heat along with the rich allure of coconut milk. Its flaky pastry has a rim of little hearts and the pie comes garnished with red curry cream and candied Thai basil. The other option is an apple galette with salted candied chili crust.
Thaimee Love Thai red curry pumpkin pie with red curry cream and candied Thai basil, $48, to order for pickup, delivery or nationwide shipping, hongthaimee.com.
The magic and mystery of mushrooms will be explored in “Fruiting Bodies,” a three-part virtual series of talks by experts. The first of which, “The Interconnectedness of Fungi,” will be Nov. 15, featuring Giuliana Furci, a founder of Fungi Foundation. Subsequent sessions in December and January will explore mushrooms in Asia and the role of mushrooms as an Indigenous “first food.” The experts for each talk will be in conversation with the journalist Simran Sethi, who curated the series.
“Fruiting Bodies: The Interconnectedness of Fungi,” virtual, Nov. 15, 5:30 to 6:30 p.m., $10; “Reclaiming the Asian History of Mushrooms,” Dec. 15, $10; and “Colonization and First Foods,” Jan. 19, $10; mofad.org.