In his informative book, “Fromages,” Dominique Bouchait explains French cheeses, dividing them into “families,” according to how they’re made, like cooked and uncooked or blue-veined. But what he says about the French varieties applies to cheeses from anywhere. Though Mr. Bouchait — a master cheesemaker based in southwest France — focuses on the 45 French cheeses that have government-controlled names, his broad scope includes types of milk, raw and pasteurized cheeses, ripening, storage, fat content, wine pairings (he prefers white) and 40 recipes.
“Fromages: An Expert’s Guide to French Cheese” by Dominique Bouchait (Rizzoli, $37.50).
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