Dirt Candy, the chef Amanda Cohen’s vegetarian restaurant on the Lower East Side, has emerged four months after closing. Her new menu includes a vegetarian version of a muffuletta sandwich. Smoked celeriac never made it into the classic from Central Grocery in New Orleans. But here, it’s among the paper-thin layers of vegetables like eggplant, zucchini and carrot interspersed with pickled stuff, vegan provolone and yuba (tofu skin), and olive tapenade in a successful creation. It’s sold for takeout and delivery, and there are socially distant seats on the sidewalk for instant gratification.
Muffuletta, $13, Dirt Candy, 86 Allen Street (Broome Street), 212-228-7762, dirtcandynyc.com.
