In Vietnam, whatever the weather, breakfast might look like what Westerners would choose for a wintry day’s supper: piping hot soups and long-simmered stews.
When I visited a couple of years ago, my guide began nearly every day with a steaming bowl of pho, the traditional beef and noodle soup found throughout Vietnam. In that regard, it was no hardship to follow his lead.
But one day, instead of pho, we had a breakfast of bo kho, a hearty dish of braised beef and vegetables, another popular morning option. As a lover of all things stew, I was thrilled.
Bo means beef and kho means simmered. The dish’s lineage is most likely Gallic in part, since beef was introduced to Vietnam by French colonists. It is also commonly served with crisp baguettes, another French contribution.
Plenty of ginger, a touch of Chinese five-spice powder and just the right amount of hot pepper also season this beef stew.CreditDavid Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.
It may even resemble the classic pot-au-feu or boeuf aux carottes, but it is undeniably Vietnamese, heavily perfumed with lemongrass, star anise and cinnamon, along with plenty of ginger, a touch of Chinese five-spice powder and just the right amount of hot pepper. These aromatics infuse both meat and sauce with heavenly flavor. Tomato is added for depth and color.
Bo kho is not at all difficult to make, however. And like most stews, it can be cooked a day or two in advance without suffering. On the contrary, it only improves.
A word or two about lemongrass: The kind you find in grocery stores in the United States tends to be a bit dry. You must peel away and discard the tough outer layers and finely chop the center to release its aroma. Bashing it a bit before chopping also helps, as does adding a few extra chunks to the pot to fish out later.
If you have a green thumb, buy an extra bunch, and let it take root so you can plant it as an edible houseplant, sprouting bushy leaves in a sunny window. In the fertile soil of Vietnam, lemongrass grows abundantly in hedges, its aroma wafting with every little warm breeze.
Here in New York, the weather is frigid. I have a pot of bo kho simmering on the stove. It’s going to be a fine thing to have for dinner, but I’ll save some for breakfast and daydream about my next trip to Vietnam.