Good morning. Maneet Chauhan, the chef and author of the excellent cookbook “Chaat: Recipes From the Kitchens, Markets and Railways of India,” recently told me about the turkey she serves for Thanksgiving at her Nashville restaurant, Chauhan Ale & Masala House. (In August, Priya Krishna wrote a profile of her for The Times.)
It’s a turkey roulade, essentially, the meat rolled around a biryani then fried and served under the gravy she generally makes for chicken tikka masala. “I do not brine the turkey,” she said, “I marinate it.” She described the marinade: garlic and ginger and yogurt and papaya, which leaves the meat moist and silky and fragrant at once. I cannot stop thinking about that turkey.
Until I can get her to show me how to make it, though, I’ll stick to my regular roasted turkey, and then make Samin Nosrat’s recipe for leftover turkey tikka masala (above) on Friday, as a nod to Maneet and a promise to myself to get to Nashville after the pandemic ends
I do want to get some new flavors on the holiday table on Thursday, though, in this year when I don’t have to play the greatest hits for a crowd that wants only to hear them. There is no crowd this year. I can play the deep cuts. You could maybe do the same. It can be liberating.
So maybe these brussels sprouts with pickled shallots and labneh? These puréed potatoes with lemon? This roasted butternut squash with red onions? This buttered stuffing with celery and leeks? Definitely this Madeira gravy. And here’s a thought: pumpkin layer cake with caramel buttercream for dessert, instead of a pie. Hey, I might even start the meal with a baked Camembert salad. I’m flying wild.
For tonight, though, I’m thinking rice and beans. Or a bowl of oyakodon. Maybe tofu mushroom soup. Something a long way from turkey and fixings. Those will be upon us soon enough.
There are thousands and thousands more recipes to consider cooking tonight and on Thanksgiving waiting for you on NYT Cooking. Go greet them on our site and apps. You can save the recipes you want to cook, and you can rate the ones you’ve made. And you can leave notes on them, too, if you’d like to remind yourself of a hack or substitution, or to tell your fellow subscribers about it.
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Now, it’s nothing to do with sage or marshmallows, but our A.O. Scott on the fiction of Joy Williams is a real pleasure. Please read that.
Thanksgiving ›
Turkey F.A.Q.
We have a full guide on buying and cooking Thanksgiving turkey, but here are answers to some of your most common questions:
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- What’s the easiest way to roast a turkey? You don’t need to brine, stuff, truss or baste a turkey to get delicious results. Try this simple recipe for starters.
- How big of a turkey should I buy? Buy one pound per person, or a pound and a half per person if you’d like to make sure you have leftovers. If you’re ordering your turkey from a butcher or farmer, you’ll need to do so a few weeks in advance.
- How do I thaw a frozen turkey? Allow one day for every four pounds of turkey. A 12-pound turkey, for example, will need three days to defrost. Thaw your turkey in the fridge and make sure to put it in a bowl or on a platter as it may drip.
- How will I know when the turkey is cooked? Take its temperature. A digital thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh should read 165 degrees.
- How do I carve the turkey? Watch this video for instructions.
Want to go to Paris? Me, too. My colleagues made it possible to do so on your screen, as part of their series, “Around the World at Home.” (Related: Here’s Jason Farago on 10 French movies that evoke the city’s charm.)
Check out Ian Frazier in The New Yorker, on the mystery of the broken windows on the 7 train. It’s a master class in New Yorker reportage, the facts stacked neatly, elegantly, into a kind of sculpture.
Finally, here’s Tame Impala covering Nelly Furtado’s “Say It Right” for the BBC, and it’s great. Listen to that and I’ll see you on Wednesday.