The Dodgers are long gone from Brooklyn. And so is Schaefer Beer, once a top-selling brand and a team sponsor that was brewed there. (It also sponsored the Mets.) The brand hung around longer than the Brooklyn Dodgers, with different owners in different locations. In the 1970s, the F.&M. Schaefer Brewing Company opened a new plant in Pennsylvania, and subsequently closed its other breweries, including the one in Brooklyn. All the while, Schaefer kept its slogan, “the one beer to have if you’re having more than one,” with a jingle that’s an ear worm for the ages. And now Pabst, the brand’s current owner, has brought it back to New York, though not Brooklyn, having it brewed by F.X. Matt in Utica. Schaefer is reformulated, with a classy new label but the same slogan. It’s a deep gold lager, 3.8 percent A.B.V., and likably mellow.