I know this space is primarily about cooking, but when The Times publishes Pete Wells’s ranked list of the top 100 restaurants in New York, it’s time to eat out! The list, he writes, creates a composite portrait of the city “that captures the diversity and character of dining in New York.” Did he miss any of your favorites? You can let me know at hellomelissa@nytimes.com.
But what if you can’t get a reservation? Fear not, we have a simple and speedy new pantry pasta (above) from Naz Deravian that’s a clever take on aglio e olio (or its fishy cousin, midnight pasta). By adding greens to the pan, she turns a bare-bones dish into a satisfying one-pan meal with enough vegetable matter to counter the carbs.
Naz also includes walnuts, a less expensive alternative to the pine nuts you’d see in recipes like this. Her virtuosic move is to toast the nuts in the pan before adding the garlic and chile, a technique that’s usually applied to bread crumbs. The earthy walnuts add an extra layer of depth and richness to the mix. Naz’s recipe calls for kale, but you can use whatever greens you’ve got.
Actually, let’s play the long game: First, make Eric Kim’s citrus-glazed turnips with a bunch of sweet hakurei turnips, and save those turnip greens for Naz’s pasta later in the week. In Eric’s recipe (adapted from Nicole Mills of Pêche restaurant in New Orleans), the turnips are roasted, then bathed with a buttery mix of gochugaru, satsuma juice and jalapeño slices. I’d serve them with Sam Sifton’s gloriously simple pan-seared salmon, which will use up the rest of your jalapeño.
Next up, to cool that chile heat, our senior video journalist Gabriella Lewis brings us her recipe for limonada, a classic summer beverage in Brazil. It’s a foamy, refreshing drink made with whole limes, blended with ice and sweetened condensed milk. Perfect for a hot day, or really any day you crave an icy, creamy beverage (which, for me, is today at this very moment).
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How to Revive Your Wilted Greens
If the greens attached to your turnips (and radishes and kohlrabi) look a little sad and withered, don’t toss them. Soak them in ice water for an hour and watch them perk right back up. It’s magical to see them transform from compostable to cookable. I often add mine to a sauté pan with kale or spinach, and I love the complementary bitterness they bring. They add such a nice pop, and they cut down on food waste!
