The three were also made with entirely different grapes. The Broc was primarily valdigué, a variety once called “Napa gamay” in California, along with some zinfandel and trousseau. The Tiberio was made entirely of montepulciano, while the Trinquevedel was a blend of Southern Rhône grapes, including 60 percent grenache, 18 percent cinsault, 5 percent syrah, 5 percent mourvèdre and, interestingly, 12 percent clairette, a white grape.
This blend might seem to account for its garnet color. While some basic rosés are indeed made by blending a little red wine with a white, the small percentage of clairette in the blend argues against the method.
Instead, as has been traditional in the Southern Rhône, the white is used in a red blend to add freshness. As with the other two wines, the color was achieved by macerating the red grapes with their skins just long enough to reach the desired shades.
Beyond color, origin and production, the wines differed quite a bit. The Broc was bone dry, lightly spicy, tangy and fresh. It was just 11 percent alcohol, the kind of wine you could drink for refreshment at the beach or by the pool. This fit in well with the popular conception of rosés as simple, easygoing wines, although I would say the Broc was a superb example.
The Trinquevedel was entirely different. It was rich and powerful at 14.2 percent alcohol, with a floral aroma. On the palate it was more earthy and mineral than fruity, with depth and dimension.
The Tiberio was likewise bigger and more serious than the Broc at 14 percent alcohol, but with more acidity than the Trinquevedel. It seemed to combine tangy, juicy flavors of red fruits with a chalky minerality.
I felt as if I could offer all three wines at a single dinner party. The Broc would be the aperitif, with hors d’oeuvres. The Tiberio could go with the midcourse. It was light enough for shellfish yet juicy enough to stand up to something heartier, like roast chicken. Meanwhile, the Trinquevedel seemed sturdy enough for a veal roast or Umbrian-style rabbit or chicken cacciatora.
