Most of the time, polenta is a side dish, a buttery space on which to pile a hunk of braised meat or golden roast chicken. It’s a supporting player, not the star.
But like its Italian compatriots risotto and pasta, fragrant, creamy polenta deserves its own spotlight. All the cook needs to do is add a few tidbits of something pungent or savory for complexity, and something crunchy or nubby to break up its unrelenting silkiness, for a warming, comforting meal that’s not at all hard to make.
In this version, I bake the polenta instead of simmering it on the stove. It’s more convenient that way, and it’s less hands-on: After popping it into oven, you won’t have to stir.
Crisp leeks add contrast to the otherwise creamy dish.CreditAndrew Scrivani for The New York Times
It’s also safer for your forearms. Of all the nasty kitchen burns I’ve endured over the years, none has been worse than the crimson blister on my wrist left by a splatter of polenta. Baking polenta eliminates this risk (and yes, I should have lowered the heat, lesson learned).
Then, while the polenta bakes, you’ll be able to use the stovetop to make the garnish. Here I sauté leeks until they turn golden, sweet and crunchy at the edges. Then I sprinkle them on the steaming polenta, along with some crumbles of Gorgonzola dolce, a gentle blue cheese that will melt on contact. If you can’t get leeks, use onions, but cook them a few minutes longer so they brown in spots. Any not-too-sharp blue cheese can stand in for the Gorgonzola. You can also try feta for something stronger and saltier, or cubes of fresh goat cheese for something creamy and relatively mild. Even grated good Cheddar will work.
You’ll probably have several options to choose from when buying your polenta: coarse, fine, instant or those that aren’t labeled. The unlabeled kind is usually a medium grind, and that’s one I usually end up with. If you see coarse, though, grab it. It will generally have the corniest flavor and most interesting texture. Just avoid the instant stuff, which is precooked and can become pasty when simmered.
Then serve it in soup plates with a green salad on the side. That’s all you’ll need for the coziest dinner in these chilly first days of spring.
