When Only Homegrown Sweet Potatoes Will Do

Sweet potatoes are the humble man’s currency. They don’t need a thing to dazzle, their slightly crumpled skins pull away easily, revealing tender flesh, hot out of the roasting pan. “Nothing is more nostalgic than the caramelized smell when sweet potatoes are bubbling out,” said April McGreger, the author of the cookbook “Sweet Potatoes,” published…