I feel it sometimes, like a phantom limb, banging against my side as I move around the house. I sense it nestled in the crook of my arm as I wander from room to room. It was the one-time receptacle of all I held immediately important: purse, receipts, identification, charger, books, tissues (fresh and used), flask, tampons, a card for that delicious but inexpensive Italian restaurant from that onetime a few months back.

What was it? My surprisingly roomy yet somehow streamlined handbag, of course.

My bag of choice was black leather with gold hardware, made by Balenciaga, bought on sale. Once upon a time I didn’t leave the house without it. Now, of course, because of Covid-19 I no longer really leave the house. I haven’t carried my bag for months.

Masks are the accessory of the moment, if one is looking to define such a thing. The tote (or clutch or saddle bag) seems a relic of ages past, gathering dust in bedroom corners and closet shelves. But is this a permanent change in our wardrobe? Or will the bag live again?

Ana Kinsella, a freelance copywriter in London, has relied on her pockets for most of her daily lockdown walks, or the occasional canvas tote for gathering supplies.

“In my pre-coronavirus life, my handbag wasn’t so much a way to carry things around as a way to keep things together,” she said. Lockdown has brought about the inverse; that constantly-accumulated junk is scattered with abandon around the home, rather than stuffed in one place. “I now have no idea where anything is,” she added.

Ms. Kinsella recalled being drunk after a late-night Zoom bachelorette party, for which she’d dressed up, and walking to the end of her road for a cigarette. On the way out she picked up her fanciest bag, a small, bright orange leather satchel, despite not actually needing it.

“I thought, I owe it to the outfit to have a handbag with me, even if no one is there to see it,” she said.

Updated

Katie Hillier knows leather goods better than most, having worked as the creative director of Marc by Marc Jacobs and consulted for an array of luxury brands. Her work at the former British brand Luella, beginning in 1999, was part of what helped kick off the “It” bag movement of the early 2000s.

“It always used to be about the work tote. What is that now?” Ms. Hillier said. “The work-from-home tote is your backpack, or the bag that fits on your bike, or the bag that you take to the market or the grocery store or on the march.”

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Credit…Getty Images

She observed that, throughout lockdown, people have been finessing the minutiae of their routines — the preferred shopping route, the ideal outdoor workout — and will likely now shop with these in mind. “Functionally is going to be even more important than it ever was before,” she said.

She predicts a market for inventive canvas shoppers, lined in something waterproof, or cross body bags with adjustable straps for hiking or cycling; “geeky stuff like that.”

Already, the luxury retailer MatchesFashion.com has seen a boost in sales of “functional lifestyle styles such as canvas totes” such as Rue De Verneuil, whose structured canvas bags cost over $200, said Cassie Smart, head of womanswear buying for MatchesFashion.

Ms. Hillier said she thought future bag purchases would be “less about bags as a status thing. Some people may have realized that they actually enjoy being at home, and that there are other things that they can spend their money on.”

Indeed, with stores closed, fashion and accessories sales have plunged by 35 to 39 percent according to a recent report from McKinsey, and some of the money that might normally have gone on bags has, over the last few months, been allocated to bikes. (In March, nationwide US sales of bicycles and related-services nearly doubled compared with the same period last year according to the N.P. D. Group.) Large leather bags are impractical for cycling: anything too long swings forward and lodges between the legs, making peddling difficult, while shoulder styles risk slipping down.

Handbags are also unhelpful at protests, which have swelled globally. For most attendees at the recent demonstrations, backpacks or fanny-bags were omnipresent.

Credit…Amir Hamja for The New York Times

In various cities, as protesters marched passed luxury stores, there were also few handbags to be seen. Nervous of the unrest, Gucci, Chloé, Louis Vuitton and others had removed stock, their usually bombastic window displays stripped bare. When, in late May, despite the spreading unrest, Vuitton opted to continue its widespread influencer campaign for its new bag, the LV Pont 9, the move was criticized on social media as tone-deaf.

  • Frequently Asked Questions

    Updated July 7, 2020

    • What are the symptoms of coronavirus?

      Common symptoms include fever, a dry cough, fatigue and difficulty breathing or shortness of breath. Some of these symptoms overlap with those of the flu, making detection difficult, but runny noses and stuffy sinuses are less common. The C.D.C. has also added chills, muscle pain, sore throat, headache and a new loss of the sense of taste or smell as symptoms to look out for. Most people fall ill five to seven days after exposure, but symptoms may appear in as few as two days or as many as 14 days.

    • Is it harder to exercise while wearing a mask?

      A commentary published this month on the website of the British Journal of Sports Medicine points out that covering your face during exercise “comes with issues of potential breathing restriction and discomfort” and requires “balancing benefits versus possible adverse events.” Masks do alter exercise, says Cedric X. Bryant, the president and chief science officer of the American Council on Exercise, a nonprofit organization that funds exercise research and certifies fitness professionals. “In my personal experience,” he says, “heart rates are higher at the same relative intensity when you wear a mask.” Some people also could experience lightheadedness during familiar workouts while masked, says Len Kravitz, a professor of exercise science at the University of New Mexico.

    • I’ve heard about a treatment called dexamethasone. Does it work?

      The steroid, dexamethasone, is the first treatment shown to reduce mortality in severely ill patients, according to scientists in Britain. The drug appears to reduce inflammation caused by the immune system, protecting the tissues. In the study, dexamethasone reduced deaths of patients on ventilators by one-third, and deaths of patients on oxygen by one-fifth.

    • What is pandemic paid leave?

      The coronavirus emergency relief package gives many American workers paid leave if they need to take time off because of the virus. It gives qualified workers two weeks of paid sick leave if they are ill, quarantined or seeking diagnosis or preventive care for coronavirus, or if they are caring for sick family members. It gives 12 weeks of paid leave to people caring for children whose schools are closed or whose child care provider is unavailable because of the coronavirus. It is the first time the United States has had widespread federally mandated paid leave, and includes people who don’t typically get such benefits, like part-time and gig economy workers. But the measure excludes at least half of private-sector workers, including those at the country’s largest employers, and gives small employers significant leeway to deny leave.

    • Does asymptomatic transmission of Covid-19 happen?

      So far, the evidence seems to show it does. A widely cited paper published in April suggests that people are most infectious about two days before the onset of coronavirus symptoms and estimated that 44 percent of new infections were a result of transmission from people who were not yet showing symptoms. Recently, a top expert at the World Health Organization stated that transmission of the coronavirus by people who did not have symptoms was “very rare,” but she later walked back that statement.

    • What’s the risk of catching coronavirus from a surface?

      Touching contaminated objects and then infecting ourselves with the germs is not typically how the virus spreads. But it can happen. A number of studies of flu, rhinovirus, coronavirus and other microbes have shown that respiratory illnesses, including the new coronavirus, can spread by touching contaminated surfaces, particularly in places like day care centers, offices and hospitals. But a long chain of events has to happen for the disease to spread that way. The best way to protect yourself from coronavirus — whether it’s surface transmission or close human contact — is still social distancing, washing your hands, not touching your face and wearing masks.

    • How does blood type influence coronavirus?

      A study by European scientists is the first to document a strong statistical link between genetic variations and Covid-19, the illness caused by the coronavirus. Having Type A blood was linked to a 50 percent increase in the likelihood that a patient would need to get oxygen or to go on a ventilator, according to the new study.

    • How can I protect myself while flying?

      If air travel is unavoidable, there are some steps you can take to protect yourself. Most important: Wash your hands often, and stop touching your face. If possible, choose a window seat. A study from Emory University found that during flu season, the safest place to sit on a plane is by a window, as people sitting in window seats had less contact with potentially sick people. Disinfect hard surfaces. When you get to your seat and your hands are clean, use disinfecting wipes to clean the hard surfaces at your seat like the head and arm rest, the seatbelt buckle, the remote, screen, seat back pocket and the tray table. If the seat is hard and nonporous or leather or pleather, you can wipe that down, too. (Using wipes on upholstered seats could lead to a wet seat and spreading of germs rather than killing them.)

    • What should I do if I feel sick?

      If you’ve been exposed to the coronavirus or think you have, and have a fever or symptoms like a cough or difficulty breathing, call a doctor. They should give you advice on whether you should be tested, how to get tested, and how to seek medical treatment without potentially infecting or exposing others.


According to Colleen Hill, curator of costume and accessories at The Museum at FIT, fashion history does attest to a link between changing handbags and social shifts. “That is an idea that can be traced back to at least the early 20th century, when women began carrying bags that held items such as cosmetics, cigarettes, a wallet and keys,” she said. “All of these signified growing freedoms for women in public life.”

Chanel’s 2.55, for example, equipped with myriad pockets and a long shoulder strap, “reflected Chanel’s personal, but highly influential, design ethos that combined practicality with high style,” said Ms. Hill.

Ms. Hill said she expected to see another such shift now. “As a New Yorker, I usually carry a large bag that will hold everything I need for the entire day — my iPad or a book, headphones, some cosmetics, my water bottle, and maybe even a spare pair of shoes,” she said. “Now that I stay closer to home, I can get away with smaller and more functional bags.”

She has been relying on a neat black leather tote, purchased on Etsy, years ago: “It’s subdued, and it feels like the right bag for this moment.”

The question of appropriateness is paramount. Typically, bags have been a financial crutch for fashion brands, propping up ready-to-wear sales, and, thanks to their logos, serving as a form of advertising. Whether this will remain true given the recession as well as the related shift in attitudes toward big business and wealth inequality is debatable.

“I think people are becoming quite confused about what they should buy and what they shouldn’t buy,” said Ms. Hillier. “They are thinking about where materials came from, whether they are eco.” She predicts people will be keen to “shop to support,” saving their money for brands that share their values.

Case in point: Tree Fairfax, a small independent label based in Virginia, whose handmade leather goods, designed, the website says, for “moving around lightly,” received numerous shout-outs on social media in the recent drive to promote black-owned businesses.

However, when contacted to discuss the effect of the current moment on handbag trends, the brand’s owner, Tricia “Tree” Hash, replied that she was too exhausted by racism, and too worried about her son who was still working as a delivery driver without P.P.E., to talk about leather goods. Which seemed exactly the point.

Later, keen to remember what had once felt so important, I took my former favorite bag for a walk around the house. We meandered from living room to bedroom and back again. After weeks of living bagless, hands-free, my swag weighing down my bicycle basket rather than my shoulders, I was transported back to a time of commutes, rushing, air travel, post work drinks, and a laptop ensconced in leather beneath the table. Suddenly, it all felt so heavy.