‘Who Are We for?’ How the Virus Is Testing the Identity of Chinatown
Hop Kee is a basement Cantonese eatery offering $9.50 shrimp lo mein. Hwa Yuan Szechuan is a three-story, white-tablecloth restaurant where the whole fish with hot bean sauce is $45. Both have long histories in Manhattan’s Chinatown, and a deep aversion to delivery apps. Hop Kee’s owner could not afford the services’ high fees. Hwa…
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