Before Chloé’s Paddington bag and Dior’s Saddle one, before Prada’s bowling bag and Mulberry’s Bayswater, there was the Fendi Baguette. A fanciful, hand-sewn purse that tucked under the arm like a French loaf and came in hundreds of variations, it was fashion’s first real “It” bag — and named for a carb.
Introduced in 1997, the Baguette held your keys, makeup and social position. Despite the price (sometimes as much as a dress but less than a coat), women lined up to buy them, and collected them. In 2012 Pamella DeVos, the designer whose brand name is Pamella Roland, had 75; the stylist Anna Dello Russo still has her original collection of 20. The Baguette transformed the identity of a brand that had been known as a fur house, and changed the balance of power between bags and clothes in the fashion industry.
And now it is about to make a return. Fendi is reintroducing the Baguette in a variety of sizes for spring. So for those who missed the debut, here’s what happened once upon a time, and what you can expect to happen next. (The comments have been edited and condensed.)
The blogger Chrisa Pappas, a collector of Fendi baguettes, on her way to a Fendi event in New York City.CreditDolly Faibyshev for The New York Times
Chrisa Pappas, blogger and influencer I have seven! I was at Boston University during the late 1990s, and completely mesmerized by the Fendi Baguette. I would meet my girlfriends to watch “Sex and the City” and obsess over the characters’ outfits. My favorite part was what bag Carrie Bradshaw was carrying. Of course I was head over heels in love with the Baguette. It was the perfect size: not too small, not too large. It hung right under your shoulder so it was comfortable and cute. The coolest part was that each bag was like a piece of art. Many were one-of-a-kind or, at least so unique, that if you didn’t buy it on the spot, then it would be gone forever. Even though I was still in college I had to have one (or two).I have no intention of ever letting mine go.
Plum Sykes, author and contributing editor, Vogue It was this accessory you had to have or you felt you weren’t part of a group, or scene, or whatever it was you wanted to be part of. I can’t think of another bag that was a phenomenon in the same way. It was a real Malcolm Gladwell “Tipping Point” situation. The only thing I can compare it to now, and at a different price point, is when Kylie Jenner puts a lip gloss on her website. Girls go completely mad and it sells out.
Giovanna Battaglia Engelbert, stylist I was on holiday in Capri with friends; it was such a joyful moment and we all decided to go shopping. I was working at the time but I wasn’t in the situation to buy whatever I wanted. I saw a Baguette in the window of the Fendi boutique. It was a special one: shaved mink, with a crocodile skin handle, and a lapis lazuli buckle. It was a super edition, and I couldn’t leave without it. I entered the boutique as if I was Julia Roberts in “Pretty Woman,” forgetting I wasn’t actually a character in that film. I paid for it with a credit card and then I went to have coffee. My card was declined! I’d exceeded my limit. The rest of the holiday I had no money. I didn’t care. “I’d rather eat bread,” I said, than not have it. My friends joked I’d have to eat my Baguette. They still remember that summer, when I spent all my money on the Baguette.
Arianne Phillips, stylist My enduring memory was being with Madonna, in Rome, on a promotional tour [“Ray of Light,” 1998]. There was a small group of us. We were staying at the Hassler hotel in Rome, just above the Spanish Steps and within walking distance of the Fendi store. We had a very busy schedule and were unable to make it to the boutique during business hours. Luckily, the very kind people at Fendi opened the boutique after hours for Madonna and our small group. I will never forget the khaki-green corduroy Baguette bag I purchased. Sadly, I lost the bag. It was in a suitcase that went missing from a flight years ago. I still mourn its loss.
Katie Hillier, co-founder of Hillier Bartley I can’t remember the year exactly but it was the ’90s. I was working with Luella Bartley at Luella, and Camille Bidault-Waddington came to visit. She was wearing a denim Baguette she’d customized with a strip of Stars and Stripes webbing stitched to the front, in that sporty Italian way. I commented on it, and Camille said I could have it! I started to adorn it, too — badges, pins, patches, key rings, ribbons. I got the nickname Trinket Girl because of that bag. Vogue photographed it, and I’ve used it as a reference for many projects since then.
Lauren Santo Domingo, co-founder of Moda Operandi and Vogue contributing editor Mine was black wool with a red enamel and crystal clasp. It was a limited edition, they told me at the time. I’ve saved it all these years for my daughter, now age 6.
Desirée Rogers, entrepreneur and chairwoman of Choose Chicago, the city’s marketing organization I was living in Chicago when I got my first Baguettes. They were out there but you had to move fast. That was part of the fun, finding the one you wanted. It was like a game. I recently found two I had back then, but I know I had more. The first I bought had an allover Fendi logo pattern; the other: paillettes, fringe and a snakeskin strap. Its popularity was as much about the size as its shape. Evening bags were very, very small then. I remember thinking I finally had space to put things in.
Margherita Missoni, creative director of M Missoni I was obsessed with them! My mum wouldn’t buy me one. I must have been around 18. One glorious day, Carla Fendi invited me to their showroom to choose one — she’d been told of my obsession. I’ve rarely felt more spoiled and lucky. I picked a military green one with a lizard skin handle. I wore it all the time with ladylike kitten heels and a Midi-length skirt.
Sarah Andelman, co-founder of Colette and the consulting agency Just an Idea The Baguette was a big moment at Colette. We actually have the same age, as Colette opened in March 1997 and the first Baguette arrived in September 1997 (I think!). Its massive success was a surprise for all and we had long waiting lists.
Silvia Venturini Fendi, creator of the Fendi Baguette Part of the Baguette’s success was its disruptiveness. Fashion was into minimalism. You could recognize someone working in the industry because they dressed entirely in black, so the Baguette was something unexpected. It broke the stark uniform and was a touch of foolishness. It was difficult to get hold of because of the level of craftsmanship involved. I don’t have such a large collection. I did, but my daughters [Leonetta Luciano Fendi and Delfina Delettrez Fendi] took them.
