Mashed potatoes are right up there in the comfort food hall of fame. And none can measure up to pommes purées, the legacy of the chef Joël Robuchon, who died in 2018. They’re served at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in New York (and elsewhere around the world), but the restaurant is closed for the pandemic so you will just have to make them at home. To serve four generously (because they are very rich), boil a pound of unpeeled Yukon Gold potatoes until tender, drain, then peel and mash them using a ricer. Return them to the pot and heat them gently for a few seconds, then add half a pound of unsalted butter, bit by bit, mixing vigorously the whole time. Slowly mix in about four tablespoons of warm whole milk. Season with salt and pepper, give them a few turns with a whisk to lighten them and serve. They can be kept warm in the top of a double boiler.
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