Do you ever feel the itch to rebel against summer cooking doctrine — the mandate to eat simply grilled fish and shaved vegetable salads — and just absolutely destroy a dish of something steaming, saucy and baked? Do you believe that melted cheese belongs to every season? Is the mozzarella stick your summer totem? I mention this because in the past two weeks I have developed a yearning for both chicken and eggplant Parmesan that can’t seem to be quelled. The schlepping of beach chairs, tote bags and damp towels has made me hungry.
I’ll always revere summer cooking for its ripeness and ease, but this week, I’ve got a few recipes for anyone who wants a break from all that is light, cool and raw. Corn and zucchini are still well represented, though: I’m not a monster.
Or am I? Send me feedback, ideas, anything at dearemily@nytimes.com. I read every email and love to hear from you.
One last note: This week, the United Nations issued a new report about the dire impact of climate change on the world’s food supply. If you’re feeling daunted, motivated to think about your own habits, or both, take a look at our F.A.Q. on food and climate change, and how to shop, cook and eat in a warming world.
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Here are five dishes for the week:
CreditDavid Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.
1. Freestyle Roasted Chicken Parm
You could tenderly bread and fry chicken cutlets, prepare a simple tomato sauce, and make a true Parm on Sunday that you can eat during the week. Or you could come home from work, drop your bag and make this fast version, a no-recipe recipe in which all the instructions are in the headnote (a sign of how easy it is). Serve with fresh greens or green beans.
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Here’s a peak-summer vegetable in pan-fried wintry form, a satisfying combination when you’ve already made that (terrific) raw zucchini salad and want to do something else. Studded with dill and feta, these pancakes are superb for dinner with yogurt sauce. Tips: Squeeze the zucchini aggressively to make the cakes as crisp as can be, and get two pans going so you can cook faster.
3. Green Shakshuka With Avocado and Lime
This recipe takes the basic structure of shakshuka, the North African dish of eggs poached in a sauce of spiced tomatoes and peppers, and replaces some of the materials. Leafy greens swap in for tomatoes, and Mexican accents like cotija cheese and jalapeño replace the spice, but the eggs remain and are extra delicious scooped up into tortillas. Add rice or corn on the side to bulk up the meal.
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4. Spicy Corn and Coconut Soup
In July and August, I eat corn like it’s my job. (I guess on some level it is my job.) This week, I made a big batch of sweet-spicy corn soup, and we devoured it. This version has both coconut milk and potatoes for flavor, texture and heft, and the suggested toppings (toasted coconut flakes, chopped roasted peanuts, crisp fried shallots) are deliciously jazzy and worth the effort if you ask me.
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5. Vietnamese-Style Pork Meatballs
The greenery of Vietnamese cooking is especially delectable in summer, so you should make these tender meatballs and shower them with herbs. Modifications work well here: You could use ground turkey instead of pork, or play around with the dipping sauce described in the headnote. Serve over rice, in broth or tucked into lettuce cups. I imagine they’d also be great on a baguette with mayo and pickled vegetables (like the ones here) and those herbs.
That’s it, though the lines are always open at dearemily@nytimes.com. Follow me on Instagram, and NYT Cooking on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest. Strong journalism and superb recipes cost $$$ to make: Support the work we do at NYT Cooking by becoming a subscriber. And if you have any problems with your account, email cookingcare@nytimes.com.