Jason Alicea learned how to make empanadas from his mother, who was taught by her former mother-in-law. But instead of a traditional Puerto Rican version, Mr. Alicea’s empanadas are inventive, though still handmade. A graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education in New York, he has opened a pop-up in the Bronx, open through next summer. Wrapped in light, greaseless pastry, his empanadas are modest in size but are filled with hugely surprising flavors. There are 44 varieties, from traditional Puerto Rican pastelon (ground beef, plantains and cheese) or ropa vieja, to bodega-style chopped cheese or truffled mac and cheese with chicken. Vegetarian empanadas are available, and he makes sweet ones, including red velvet.
Empanology, 2407-13 Third Avenue (Bruckner Boulevard), 718-292-0222, empanology.com.
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