Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria in NoHo has a new executive chef, Preston Madson, who was at Barbuto and Freeman’s. And he has taken a new approach to focaccia. Working with Marco Riggi — a purveyor of some ancient strains of triticum wheat in Caltanissetta, Sicily — the restaurant is importing stone-ground organic timilia flour, also known as tumminia, for focaccia. The large rectangular flatbreads, about a foot long, are dark and earthy, yet light in texture. They are sold simply brushed with olive oil and strewn with rosemary, or topped, with ricotta, spinach and anchovies; ricotta and rosy salami; and ricotta with delicate squash and mushrooms, among others. They’re served ($6 to $8) during the aperitivo hours (3:30 to 5:30 p.m.) and also sold to take away, $10 to $15 per pound.
Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria, 53 Great Jones Street (Bowery), 212-837-2622, ilbuco.com.
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