Flavored salts are not significant in my culinary wardrobe, though occasionally some come along that tempt me, like this set of three developed by Momofuku. A kosher salt blended with crushed Sichuan peppercorns, called Tingly, was the star. The amount of the piquant, palate-numbing spice is well-balanced in the salt, so it does not overwhelm what you season. A ruddy orange salt called Spicy is fueled with several chiles and gives a nice finish to beef and pork. The one labeled Savory blends salt and pepper with umami-rich components like kelp, mushrooms and tamari.
Momofuku Seasoned Salts, $28 for a set of three, to order now for delivery in a few weeks, shoppeachykeen.momofuku.com.
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