So much happened on yesterday’s catwalks that we had to take an inventory. What moved us? What made us want to shop again? And what flavor chicken wings was Bella Hadid eating at Brandon Maxwell? The questions are endless, but thankfully, the runways end at 9pm. Here’s everything that happened before then…
Brandon Maxwell
The Basics: So pretty. So polished. So perfectly made for women who are finally ready to embrace their outer beauty. When Maxwell took his mother along for his final bow, she cried, we cried… then we promptly called our moms post-show.
The Bonus: Wingstop sponsored the show, and everyone—editors, buyers, publicisits—had hot wings before the runway began. As for models like Bella Hadid? They got their own stash backstage!
Jonathan Simkhai
The Basics: It was 20 degrees in New York, and Simkhai came prepared. The designer had printed puffer jackets with matching party dresses, and cozy wool trousers layered under silk gowns. In the era of extreme climate, dressing for warmth often feels like a chore, but not this time.
The Bonus: Under the guidance of hair legend Odile Gilbert, TRESemmé stylists made super-loose, super-low ponytails that split down the middle and draped across the models’ shoulders. It was kind of like pigtails, but modern and cool and not about Nabokov. Thank goodness.
Eckhaus Latta
The Basics: The art school supernovas made their usual quota of quirk—yes, that was a shirt made from car seat beads—but also had some rather conventional hits on their hands, including a pale blue dress that was pretty-pretty-pretty. They’ve already conquered The Whitney Museum; do they want to win Bergdorf Goodman next?
The Bonus: In perhaps the most genius collab since Christopher Kane x Crocs, the brand has paired with UGG to make some heavenly shearling slides and heels.
Self-Portrait
The Basics: Several seasons back, Self-Portrait’s peek-a-boo shoulders started a trend that—for better or worse—still won’t quit. For Fall, they’ve upped that game with asymmetrical poufs that recall ‘80s couture and also pirates. As seen on model Hanne Gaby Odiele, it’s a good look for a bold babe.
The Bonus: For true fashion nerds, there were some nods to Prada Spring ‘08 in this collection. I couldn’t afford it back then, but now? Net-a-Porter, sign me up!
Christian Siriano
The Basics: With metallic fabrics and sharp-angled skirts, much of this collection looked like space age couture. (Ashley Graham in the hooded constellation gown, we’re looking at you.) But then came a series of perfectly-cut black gowns that were more Princess Grace than Princess Leia, and a girl-power theme emerged: you can look like whatever female force you want, and still rule the world.
The Bonus: Why yes, those are tiny gemstones on each of the models’ faces, part of the beauty look by Maybelline’s Erin Parsons!
Longchamp
The Basics: In college, certain style tribes wielded their Longchamp pliage bags (procured abroad in France) as a kind of social passport. This season, it’s pushing for broader youth culture cred with logo leggings, cross-body bags, and Kaia Gerber on the catwalk.
The Bonus: Here is Kate Moss, 45, walking into Longchamp as if it’s her own personal ad campaign. (It basically is, though.)
R13
The Basics: If like me, you are 35-45 years old, you dressed like this in high school but without the Japanese denim and premium cashmere. Now teen models are wearing my memories via R13, right down to the scuffed floral combat boots and Sharpie-drawn sneakers. The thing is, even on days when I don’t believe in love, I’ll always believe in a giant leopard-print sweater.
The Bonus: Several models had FUCK TRUMP scrolled across their sneakers. Will they sell fastest at the Barneys in Washington DC?
