This holiday season, Ladurée has enlisted the Parisian chef Jean-François Piège to create some of its French pastries: macarons, stunning bûches de Noël and, a favorite of mine with a glass of Champagne or just to nibble, his take on a simple loaf cake. Called the Cake, it’s a buttery, citrusy confection festive enough with its tracings of candied peel atop its lemon glaze.

The Cake by Jean-François Piège, $36, Ladurée on the Upper East Side and in SoHo,,

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