Restaurant Review: Hakka Cuisine in Chinatown

I have eaten sweet-and-sour pork out of takeout containers on the floor of apartments while moving boxes towered over my head. I have plucked out its pineapple wedges and bell peppers with plastic chopsticks under strings of puffer-fish lights at long-gone Polynesian restaurants in New Jersey. I have eaten sweet-and-sour pork in which sugar and…