How many doughs can serve as a base for pillowy cinnamon buns in one moment, and not-too-sweet hamburger buns the next? A relative of Hokkaido milk bread and French brioche, this enriched bread has unparalleled versatility. It also defies categorization: Its silky, delicate, lightly sweet crumb has as much in common with pastry as it…
I’ve seen a few articles now about the awkward social transition many of us face as more people are vaccinated, and our emergence into a world where we will once again wear shoes and interact with strangers and maybe even attend a party. (Maybe.) My own version of this arrived when friends came over to…
One of the beautiful things about sausages is that, as long as they contain enough fat to crisp up in all the right places, you can fill them with almost anything. In the United States, pork predominates, though turkey, chicken, tofu and vegan versions are gaining ground, available in some form at supermarkets across the…
Parties and get-togethers might look more normal this summer, but we can’t say the same for the drinks cooler. Breweries and beverage companies have invented new summertime drinking options that move beyond the standard lager, canned cocktail or hard seltzer. These warm-weather drinks blur categories, running the spectrum from hops-infused sparkling water to boozy beer…
In New York, where lawmakers are considering a bill to make to-go cocktails permanent, a rivalry has emerged between liquor stores and restaurants. Stefan Kalogridis, the president of the New York State Liquor Store Association, has said his organization supports the change, but only if restaurants are restricted from selling bottles of alcohol. Across the…
As with pilsner, craft brewers take liberties with the style. I’ve seen raspberry Kölsch, honey Kölsch, kiwi Kölsch, but though I know many American brewers make true Kölsch-style beers, I don’t often see them. It may be that some American brewers refrain from using the name Kölsch, respecting it as a geographical appellation, which makes…
My rice cooker was cheaply made and cheaply bought, a squat device of rounded plastic and metal. I chose mine from the selection at H Mart because it had only two settings — cook and warm — and pastel flowers stamped across its curve. I found this flourish charming: My rice cooker tries. I try,…
When I closed my restaurant because of Covid, I said I would put her to “sleep” indefinitely, and I said I’d take the time to think hard on some old, industrywide pre-existing problems: the enraging fact of ICE raids; the hard-to-stomach pay inequities between the tipped waiter and hourly cook, and the tipped bartender and…
Welcome. “Sinead O’Connor is alone, which is how she prefers to be.” So begins Amanda Hess’s profile of the musician most famous for her 1990 version of “Nothing Compares 2 U” and for tearing up a photo of Pope John Paul II on “Saturday Night Live” two years after that song’s release. O’Connor spoke to…
In California, he learned the basics at Zaca Mesa, a leading Santa Barbara winery in the 1970s. There, he also met Mr. Tolmach, who would become his partner at Au Bon Climat. Mr. Clendenen left again in 1980 to work harvests in Australia before another trip to Burgundy in 1981. “I learned that everything else…