Summer Days, Drifting Away

It’s almost Labor Day, which means that our time together is coming to an end. We laughed, we cried, we snacked, we island hopped, we … assessed infection risks. After a long summer of mixed vibes, my newsletter partner Michael Gold and I decided to (virtually) sit down and reflect on all of the strangeness…

A Holy-Grail, One-Pot Roast Chicken

Shortly before we were to wriggle our way around the horse and find our places at the table, Madame took me into the kitchen, opened the oven door, pointed to the chicken and exclaimed, “Qu’il est beau!” She didn’t exaggerate — it was beautiful in every way. There were the simultaneous pleasures of hearing the…

HOWM Cocina & Cocktails Opens in Chelsea

Headliner HOWM Cocina & Cocktails The name is pronounced “home.” Remembering how it’s spelled is something else. The idea, according to the Gilded Group, which manages the restaurant in partnership with the Selina Chelsea hotel, is to express people coming together with food and drink. Got that? What the name doesn’t reflect is the nature…

Cooking Class | Fanny Singer

“Hi. I’m Fanny Singer. And today, I’m cooking an herby grilled tuna salad. It’s called a deconstructed salad nicoise. The majority of the ingredients for the salad are from the farmer’s market. And I always like to go to the farmer’s market and see what they have and then sort of adapt accordingly. This is…

The Lighter Side of Octopus

Justin Smillie, the executive chef for the Il Buco restaurants in Manhattan and in Amagansett, N.Y., wanted to devise a lighter take on octopus. “I was looking for something other than the big steaky chunks you always see,” he said. So instead of cutting meaty cross-sections of the tentacles, he shaved them into ribbons the…

A Streusel Cake to Write Home About

The new streusel cakes from the Vienna Cookie Company in Baldwin, N.Y., are defined by their fillings of fruit, chocolate or nuts, sandwiched in between a tender cookielike base and a rich crumb topping. The cakes are the owner Heidi Riegler’s refinement of the typical New York coffee shop crumb cake and can go from…