Savory Rhubarb, and Tofu Two Ways

I’m used to rhubarb baked into cobblers, crisps and crumbles, but it also shines when it’s treated as a savory ingredient, like in Naz Deravian’s khoresh rivas, a vegetarian version of the big, comforting spring stew often made with lamb. Here, rhubarb cooks down on a bed of beans simmered with fried parsley and mint,…

Riffing on a Classic Roman Pasta

Good morning. Pasta alla gricia is one of the all-stars of the Roman pasta canon, a simple preparation with guanciale, Pecorino Romano and black pepper. But if you don’t have guanciale (and don’t have a few days to prepare your own), you might make salami pasta alla gricia (above) instead. There’s something delightful about how…

Resisting the Hot Reservation Economy

If you’d prefer to stay off the reservation sites, you can try calling: Restaurants of a certain era, like Yakitori Totto near Carnegie Hall, sometimes take last-minute reservations over the phone. Or you should join every restaurant obsessive I know in dining out at 6 p.m. Sure, it’ll be on the quiet side when you…