WHEN I WAS growing up in Stockton, Calif., in the 1970s and ’80s, there were only two special-occasion restaurants acceptable to my family. They were both on the south side of the city, in the barrio. My Mexican-born abuelo liked Mi Ranchito, and for my dad it was Arroyo’s Cafe. No matter which one we…
I can’t remember the last New York restaurant that frustrated me as much as Noksu. My frustration won’t be widely shared, given how few people can afford to eat there. Dinner is $225 for about 12 courses, before tax, tip or drinks. Drinks can be paired with each course for another $175 (with alcohol) or…
What do chefs actually think about what it’s like to run a restaurant today? What do they say when they’re being absolutely candid about the job? Restaurant chefs, who run businesses all over the country serving millions of people, have weathered some dramatic years. Through the pandemic, and the sea changes of #MeToo and Black…
I love the theater of the steakhouse — the kind that has been open for 50 years and counting, rarely changes its interior design or branding and may or may not adhere to a stodgy dress code (no denim or open-toed shoes!). I mean steakhouses like House of Prime Rib in San Francisco, Hal’s in…
Cinnamon-flavored applesauce pouches sold in grocery and dollar stores last year poisoned hundreds of American children with extremely high doses of lead, leaving anxious parents to watch for signs of brain damage, developmental delays and seizures. The Food and Drug Administration, citing Ecuadorean investigators, said a spice grinder was likely responsible for the contamination and…
Headliner Central Park Boathouse It will soon be spring and the Boathouse, which has been a fixture on the edge of the lake in Central Park since 1954 and has had its share of rough sailing, is about to reopen. Legends, the company that runs the food outlets at Yankee Stadium and elsewhere, is now…
The Food Network South Beach Wine & Food Festival in Miami just wrapped up this year’s run. Next stop: the New York edition, scheduled for Oct. 17 through 20, but with a big difference. It’s moving its largest events to Brooklyn, to the Brooklyn Army Terminal in Sunset Park. A 450,000-foot sprawl will contain the…
Less is more: These are words to live by in the kitchen, especially midweek between 5 and 8 p.m. There are no trophies for the most time spent toiling on dinner after work, no awards for the most elaborate dishes sailing off your stove on a Tuesday evening. I love a particularly ingenious less-is-more recipe,…
A recent outbreak of lead poisoning from cinnamon in applesauce has drawn attention to the toxic effect the heavy metal can have on children. The cinnamon in the applesauce was believed to have been intentionally contaminated, possibly to add to its value as a commodity sold by weight. It had unusually high levels of lead.…
Lacking the Italian suavity of farro or the good-for-you cred of quinoa, barley might seem a little frumpy. Thank goodness for Hetty Lui McKinnon, who reminds us that barley’s velvety, nubby texture and gentle flavor pair wonderfully with a wide range of ingredients beyond the usual mushrooms and beef. In her new recipe for lemony…