These Cakes Have Thorns

Today’s wildly ornamented creations veer even further from tradition and toward self-expression. In Berlin, Hana Betakova, 29, sells surreal tiered cakes through her bakery, Růstcakes, that are edible studies in opposition. She likes to work with aquafaba meringue, which is easily shaped into peaked dollops, obscuring the fluffy crumb within. Her signature style pairs frosting…

Pecan Tarts: A Love Story

My first pecan tart came from a crush. A guy who lived next door. In the way of queer latchkey teenagers globally, we baked at his place in the afternoons. I crushed pecans. He sifted sugar. Sometimes we brushed hands, folding butter into flour. Once the tarts had been baked, we split them down the…

A Short Guide to Restaurant Thanksgiving

The countdown to Thanksgiving has officially begun. And while most people gather at a loved one’s house for dinner (4 p.m. or bust!), a brave, avant-garde few forgo the headaches and the dishwashing and their worst relatives, choosing instead to leave the work to the professionals. Whether you’re a restaurant Thanksgiving lifer, or you’re just…