The Secret to Better Salmon Is Salt

Good morning. J. Kenji López-Alt went full Kenji recently and dove deep into the process of dry-brining salmon to achieve firmer, juicier, less albumin-stained cooked fillets. I admire the tenacity of Kenji’s reporting, and I’m absolutely thrilled to report that while he calls for an overnight cure on the fish, I’ve achieved excellent results in…

Shrimp Cocktail for Dinner

I happen to live near a small but great seafood market, where the fish is impeccably fresh. Their poached shrimp is plump and juicy; the housemade cocktail sauce has just the right zing. I bought them once or twice as a starter for a special meal. But one day I realized that I was holding…

15 Hours on the Job With a Bagel Roller

It’s dark. It’s 39 degrees outside. And it’s 2:40 a.m. At a bus stop in the Sheepshead Bay neighborhood of Brooklyn, Celestino García, wearing a black puffer jacket, jeans, gray Skechers and a black North Face backpack, has already started his day. Mr. García, 58, cranes his neck to look for the B3 bus, which…