The Particular Magic of Chicken, Egg and Rice

There’s a sort of holiness in donburi’s simplicity, which is endless, permeable and variable. With its smoking eel just slightly grilled and settled over rice, every bowl of unadon I’ve eaten at Kuromon Market in Osaka, tanked in the mornings after cartwheeling with the gays through the city’s Doyamo district, has been the closest I’ve…