The End of Chefs: Moving Beyond Toxic Kitchen Culture

Picture a great restaurant, the chef up at dawn, dusting hand-milled flour on a butcher’s block. The chef under a spotlight, tweezing chive blossoms in the chaos of the pass, or fanning the wood fire under a row of shimmering, trussed birds. The chef is in sharp focus, but everything else — everyone else —…

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A Colombian Chef Shares His Secret to Better Empanadas

I showed up at the chef Carlos Gaviria’s apartment in Bogotá, Colombia, fully expecting to bite into something surprisingly delicious, but I did not expect to have my mind blown. Earlier that month, he had invited my family via Instagram direct message to cook with him during our most recent trip to my wife, Adri’s,…

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‘Closing Isn’t Even an Option’: With No Events, Caterers Rush to Adjust

On a recent Saturday, petite lobster rolls on toasted brioche and coconut shrimp with mango aioli were to be passed among the guests at a 210-person wedding. A bar mitzvah party for 180 was going to conclude with torched s’mores and a chocolate fountain. For David Cingari of David’s Soundview Catering in Stamford, Conn., the…

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Chinatown Is Coming Back, One Noodle at a Time

With an amber chip of roast duck skin on one street and a tangle of lo mein on another, Chinatown took a few steps out of its long hibernation last week. Before New York City had its first confirmed case of Covid-19 on March 1, the disease had already hurt the neighborhood indirectly, as baseless…

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A Dark, Brooding Rum for Your Cocktails

Santa Teresa, an elegant rum estate established not far from Caracas, Venezuela, in 1796, is still going strong. Its Santa Teresa 1796 Solera Rum — processed using the solera method, like sherry, and aged in bourbon oak barrels, whiskey oak barrels and French limousin oak barrels — has a dark, brooding complexity best enjoyed in…

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A Digital School Cookbook to Aid Families

There’s a story to be told about Martin Van Buren High School in Queens Village. Less than a decade ago, the graduation rate at the school was 46 percent. With the arrival of a new principal, Sam Sochet, the situation began to improve. Last year, the rate was nearly 80 percent, and the curriculum has…

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South African Jerky, and More, at New York Biltong

Biltong is South African beef jerky, succulent and less stringy than the American kind, and this new West Village food store specializes in it. The house biltong is made from traditional grass-fed or aged beef, among other options, and thin little slices often have a richness that’s worthy of a platter or cheese board. The…

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Marcus Samuelsson’s Streetbird Delivers to Your Door

The chef Marcus Samuelsson’s Streetbird flies again. His closed Harlem restaurant specialized in fried chicken, and the dish is now available for delivery nationwide. All it requires is a quick reheat. In the kit, which serves four, you get four battered, golden-brown back-quarters (legs and thighs) with cornbread waffles, pickles and hot honey for drizzling…

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Dirt Candy Returns With a Vegetarian Muffuletta

Dirt Candy, the chef Amanda Cohen’s vegetarian restaurant on the Lower East Side, has emerged four months after closing. Her new menu includes a vegetarian version of a muffuletta sandwich. Smoked celeriac never made it into the classic from Central Grocery in New Orleans. But here, it’s among the paper-thin layers of vegetables like eggplant,…

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For the Navajo Nation, a Fight for Better Food Gains New Urgency

THE NAVAJO NATION — When Summer Brown lived in Phoenix, she had no problem finding fresh produce. If the Sprouts supermarket near her home didn’t have what she was looking for, she would just drive somewhere else. This winter, Ms. Brown, an enrolled member of the Navajo Nation, moved back to her childhood home in…

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