Alexander McQueen : Runway - Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020

Yanshan ZhangGetty Images

What comes across most clearly at Sarah Burton’s Alexander McQueen shows, aside from the stunning craftsmanship and impeccable tailoring, is the thoughtfulness. There’s a story behind each piece, behind the setting, behind even the seating for the show—imbuing the collection with emotional oomph.

For this fall 2019 collection, Burton went home to the North of England for inspiration. From the grey moors and seaside vistas, to the mills with their bolts of fabric and machinery, all of it found its way into the clothes, whether in the suiting made with fabric from those mills or the moody floral prints on the dresses.

Here, a closer look at what went into the collection.

Suiting using fabric from British mills:

Alexander McQueen - Runway - Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020

Victor VIRGILEGetty Images

The suiting was made with fabric from four British mills: William Halstead, John Foster, Bower Roebuck and Saville Clifford, and Joshua Ellis. Burton wrote that the «heart of the collection is inspired by the bolts of cloth we saw woven both by man and machine.» The above look is made from a worsted flannel in charcoal grey.

Bolts of fabric from the factories were also used as seating for the show.

White shirtdress inspired by the original suffragettes in Britain:

Alexander McQueen - Runway - Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020

Victor VIRGILEGetty Images

This white poplin shirtdress was inspired by the British suffragettes, who always dressed up and wore white to marches.

Suffragettes March in London
Suffragettes marching in London.

Hulton DeutschGetty Images

The earring dress:

Alexander McQueen : Runway - Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020

Peter WhiteGetty Images

Look closer and you’ll see that this tulle tunic is embroidered with hundreds of pairs of glittery earrings—387 earrings to be precise.

Alexander McQueen : Runway - Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020

Peter WhiteGetty Images

Floor scraps are given a new life:

How’s this for sustainable? Scrap bits of fabric from the floors of the mills were used to create the 3-D rosettes on the skirt of this suit dress.

Alexander McQueen - Runway - Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020

Victor VIRGILEGetty Images

Thousands of tiny snaps:

Alexander McQueen - Runway - Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020

Victor VIRGILEGetty Images

The dots on this knit dress are actually 2000 dressmaker snaps, another nod to the importance of tailoring and the machinery in the mills.

Alexander McQueen - Runway - Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020

Victor VIRGILEGetty Images

One giant piece of fabric:

Alexander McQueen : Runway - Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020

Peter WhiteGetty Images

The show-stopping taffeta finale looks, sewn and draped to look like a flower in bloom, were made from one giant (25 meter) piece of fabric.

Alexander McQueen : Runway - Paris Fashion Week Womenswear Fall/Winter 2019/2020

EstropGetty Images

See the full collection: