Kitty Keller, the founder of the importer KL Keller Foodways, has a favorite French maker of pâte de fruits in Provence, François Doucet. Over a dinner at King, she persuaded him to make a paste she had been thinking of for years: quince (like the Spanish membrillo, often served with cheese) seasoned with espelette, a spice she adores from the Basque Country. The result is a small ruddy block of a densely fruity yet tart confection, with a kick. Serve it with cheese or gently melt it to make a glaze for pork. Use a slice of it instead of jelly in your PB&J, and that sandwich will never be the same.
Quince Paste With Espelette by François Doucet, $14.95 for 7.05 ounces, markethallfoods.com.
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