Australia Fare: What Is Italian-Australian Food? Two Interpretations, on Opposite Sides of the Street

MELBOURNE, Australia — The Olive Jar and Capitano have a lot in common. Both restaurants are in Carlton, Melbourne’s historically Italian neighborhood. They sit about a block from each other on Rathdowne Street, not far from Carlton’s touristy main drag, Lygon Street, the center of Melbourne’s Little Italy. They both serve pizza, pasta and wine.…